Dirtbagging 101: How to Tie Into A Climbing Harness

So you’re learning how to climb—time to learn the basics. To tie yourself into a climbing harness, you’ll need to know how to create a Figure-8 Follow-Through knot, followed by a Fisherman’s Backup knot. They don’t just look pretty—they’re your lifelines should your grip slip, keeping your harness attached to the belay rope. While nothing beats hands-on practice (it makes perfect, after all), visual learners might benefit from brushing up with this photo tutorial. Just make sure to practice tying these knots with the help of an expert before you try them on your own and in the field.

Step 1: First, make sure you’re holding the correct end of the rope. One end will be hanging from a belay device and one will be coming down from a top rope or the top of a climbing wall. Use this end.

Step 2: Measure out about an arm’s length of rope. Pinch the rope here (you’ll need this excess rope to tie your Figure-8 knot and your backup knot).

More instructions after the jump!

Step 3: Measure out about eight inches of rope and pull up the excess rope to match it. Twist the rope to create one loop.

Step 4: Turn from the top of the loop to create one more twist—two twists, no more, no less.

Step 5: Take the loose end of the rope and send it through the back of the loop you’ve made. Pull the end through and back towards you until you start to see what looks like a Figure-8.

Step 6: Pull the tail of the rope to check you’ve made the correct knot, but don’t make it tight just yet. Leave some slack through the knot.

Step 7: Take the tail end of the rope and thread it through the bottom and top loops on the front side of your climbing harness. Make sure you’ve gone through both loops! Send the tail end back up towards your Figure-8 knot.

Step 8: All you’re going to do now is trace the knot you’ve already made. Follow it exactly; make sure each turn of the rope now has a matching partner. The tail end should eventually be heading back toward the end of the rope going up the climbing wall.

Step 9: Pull the knot and double check yourself in “twos.” Two pieces of rope for each twist of the knot, two pieces of rope heading back toward the wall.

Step 10: For extra safety and to keep the excess rope out of the way while you’re climbing, make a Fisherman’s Backup knot—make a small loop around the center rope and follow-through, making what looks like a little pretzel. Pull tight. Other versions of this backup knot include the Yosemite Tuck (just tucking the excess rope back into the Figure-8 knot), but I’d advise against it, especially for a beginner. Tuck it wrong and you’re weakening a very important knot.

That’s it! You’ll use this knot almost every time you’re climbing with a belay partner, and it’ll become second nature quickly. You’ll also need to know how to do these knots to pass a belay test at a climbing gym. Again, it’s important to have someone watch you do this knot your first time to ensure proper technique!